Adding a table to your deck can make a big difference, just like adding furniture to a room can. During the warmer months, a well-placed table can make it much easier for friends and family to get together and enjoy the outdoors. Building your own patio table is not only a good way to save money, but it also gives you the chance to make a table that fits your deck's size and style.
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You can make many different kinds of patio tables on your own, from coffee tables to dining tables. Each one is good for a slightly different situation. Anyone can learn how to build an outdoor table that looks great on their deck with just a little bit of planning.
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DIY Outdoor Dining Table
To look like it was made by a professional, furniture doesn't need fancy details or intricate carvings. This means that learning how to build an outdoor dining table is much easier than you might think at first. This simple style has room for six people and looks great outside. This table can also easily hold umbrellas, lanterns, or candles, making it easier to use your deck all year round.
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You’ll need:
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Three 2”x4”x8’ boards
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Seven 2”x6”x8’ boards
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2-1/2” pocket hole screws
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Four dining table legs or 29″x 3-1⁄2” substitute
You can use any kind of wood you want. Aside from how they look, different types of wood also have their own pros and cons. Hardwoods are one of the best types of materials for outdoor furniture, but cedar is a great and cheaper alternative.
How to Build Outdoor Dining Table
Step 1: Make Your Cuts
For the top of your table, use your boards measuring 2 inches by 6 inches by 8 feet to cut seven pieces measuring 52 inches and two pieces measuring 38 and 1/2 inches. From the 2"x4"x8' board, cut two parts measuring 54 inches each for the length of the frame, two sections measuring 32 and a half inches each for the bracing in the middle of the frame, and two sections measuring 29 and a half inches each for the width of the frame.
Read more: Stair Stringer Attachment
Step 2: Form the Base
Put together the framework. Create attachment points for the legs by drilling pocket holes in each of the four corners. Attach the legs to the frame by using pocket hole screws, and then drill pocket holes into the top of the frame to provide space for the tabletop to be attached.
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Step 3: Assemble the Top
Put your seven 2"x6"x52" pieces parallel to each other, then put your 2"x6"x38-1/2" cuts on either end to bookend the arrangement. Drill pocket holes into each part so that they can be connected together. Before joining the pieces with pocket hole screws, ensure that the joints of each board are clamped together.
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Step 4: Assemble Table
Attach the tabletop and base together by using the pocket holes that you've already drilled into them. Sand down any rough parts, use a damp cloth to remove any remaining wood residue and then allow the table to dry completely. You can protect your hard work by staining or painting your new table, or you can paint it so that it more closely matches your deck.
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DIY Deck Coffee Table
A good coffee table should serve as much more than just a surface for setting your drink down on. This elegant x-leg design offers enough chances to share a place with a companion or to accent the décor of your deck in a variety of different ways. With the use of a miter saw, it is not difficult at all to transform a tiny DIY deck coffee table like this one from having a square top to having a round top.
You’ll need:
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Wood glue
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2” Wood screws
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1-1/4” and 2” brad nails
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One 1”x4”x8’ board
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One 2”x4”x8’ board
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Three 5/4”x6”x8’ decking
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How To Build A Deck Coffee Table
Step 1: Make Your Cuts
Cut four 36-inch pieces from your decking boards for the tabletop, and then cut four 14-1/2-inch pieces with sides that are at a 36° angle for the legs. Cut four 18-3/4" pieces from your 1"x4"x8' board to use as braces for the top and bottom of the legs. Then, cut four more pieces that are 3-1/2" long for the feet. With the rest of your boards, cut four pieces that are 20-3/4" long for the tabletop and one that is 26-1/2" long for the center beam.
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Step 2: Assemble Sides
Cross two of your 14-1/2-inch cuts to make two X-shaped legs. Place your 18-3/4" cut on the top and bottom of the legs, 3/4" from the edge and 1-3/4" from the side. Drill holes in the top and bottom first, then use 2" wood screws to put it together. Use wood glue and brad nails to put the feet on.
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Step 3: Build the Base
Join the side beams to the middle beam. Drill holes in the beam before putting it together with 3" wood screws. On the opposite side of the central beam, attach 2"x4"x1" ends with wood glue and brad nails.
Read more: DIY Patio Table Building Guide
Step 4: Assemble Top
Set your tabletop boards up so that they are parallel to each other and 14" apart. Put your 20-3/4" boards next to them perpendicularly, each one 1" away from the edge. Drill holes in each board ahead of time so they can be put together, then connect them, clamp the joints together, and put them together with wood screws.
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FAQs
Step 5: Connect the Top and Base
Drill holes in the top of the base so that it can connect to the top, and then use wood screws to connect the base to the top. With a damp cloth, sand away any glue or rough spots. Let the wood dry for a while before you stain or paint it.
What height should a patio dining table be?
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Aim for 28–30 inches (71–76 cm). That’s the standard dining height for outdoor tables, pairing well with 18–23 inch seat heights. Leave ~36 inches of clearance around the table so people can move comfortably.
How many people can my DIY table seat?
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Rough rule: allow 24 inches of table edge per person plus ~15 inches of depth. Example: a 72" × 36" rectangle comfortably seats 6 (3 per side). Keep ~3 ft circulation space around the table.
What wood is best for an outdoor table?
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Teak and ipe top the list for decay resistance and longevity; cedar is a lighter, cost-friendlier option. Choose durable species and finish appropriately for your climate.
Which fasteners should I use outdoors (esp. with pressure-treated)?
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Use stainless steel (304/316) or hot-dip galvanized (ASTM A153) screws/bolts. Avoid mixing stainless with galvanized on the same joint. This protects against corrosion—especially with modern treated lumber.
What glue works for exterior joinery?
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A waterproof PVA like Titebond III—it meets ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance and is a go-to for outdoor furniture joints (on sound, well-fitted wood).
Can I use pocket holes outside?
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Yes—use exterior-rated pocket screws, e.g., Kreg Blue-Kote or stainless pocket screws. They’re designed for moisture exposure and treated lumber.
What finish should I use—and how often do I maintain it?
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For maximum protection, a marine/spar varnish (polyurethane) offers a flexible, UV-resistant film; for easy upkeep, a penetrating exterior oil is simpler to refresh (more frequently). Expect to clean seasonally and re-coat annually or as needed based on exposure.
Should I gap tabletop boards for drainage?
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If you’re building a slatted top, leave ~1/8–1/4 inch (3–6 mm) between boards to shed water—similar to exterior decking guidance. (Solid-panel tops: rely on finish + overhangs and keep covered when possible.)
What size umbrella hole should I drill?
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Most patio tables use ~1.75 inch holes; common umbrella pole diameters are ~1.5 inches, so many DIYers drill 1.75–2.0 inches to fit collars/sleeves. Verify your umbrella’s spec first.
Can I build with pressure-treated lumber—and when can I finish it?
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Yes—just use stainless or hot-dip galvanized hardware and allow new PT wood to dry before staining/painting. Modern treatments often finish in ~30 days, but many pros still recommend ~1–3 months depending on climate and moisture. Test readiness and follow your finish label.